Saturday, 12 September 2009
Sukuh Temple
 Several temples were constructed high on the slopes of Mt. Lawu during the 15th
century, just right on the border between East and Central Java. By this time,
Javanese religion and art had diverged far from the Indian precepts that exerted
significant influence during the 8th-10th centuries. This region on the northwest
slopes of Mt. Lawu was the last major center of temple-building in Java before
the Javanese courts were converted to Islam in the 16th century.
Candi Sukuh is a fifteenth century Javanese-Hindu temple (candi) that is located on the
western slope of Mount Lawu. This temple is the largest and most complex of these
mountain sanctuaries. It is situated at an elevation of 910 meters (2,960 ft);
reached by taking a turn-off to the left at Karangpandan on the road up to Tawangmangu.
Here, a number of inscriptions dating from the period A.D. 1416-1459 have been
found.
Sukuh is said to be the only explicitly erotic temple in all of Java. On a stone
floor at the top of the steep stone tunnel a large realistic penis faces a lovingly
sculpted, swollen in excitement vagina carved in relief. The first representation
of a kris in Indonesian art is shown in one panel; Bima forging one with his bare
hands while using his knee as an anvil. These strongly carved figures are so intriguing
because they are done in the "wayang-puppet style".
The main structure at Sukuli is shaped like no other building in ancient Indonesia
- a flat-topped pyramid much resembling a Mayan monument. A stone stairway conducts
the visitor through the side of the pyramid to its summit.
The main building gives no indication of having supported any wooden structure. The
only object recovered from its summit was a tall lingga bearing an inscription,
which is now in the Jakarta museum.
The central pyramid is set at the rear of the highest of three terraces. Originally
worshippers would have gained access to the site through a gateway at the edge
of the western or lowest terrace.
To the right of the entrance to the pyramid is a cubical structure carved with
two horizontal rows of reliefs where reminiscent of the Sudamala story.
This area is extremely beautiful and fascinating to visit.
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